Review: Five Ten Hiangle Pro climbing shoes


With giant holds bolted to 45-degree walls, today’s gyms are a far cry from the days when indoor climbing mimicked outdoor terrain. Gone are the gray rock-shaped wedges, replaced by glowing neon lights, triangles, boxes and various geometric shapes and sizes. Climbing shoe manufacturer Five Ten’s solution to these specific indoor grips is to design a shoe specifically designed for climbing artificial terrain. They also want to get the most power out of it, especially on sockets with smooth sides. That’s why his new Hiangle Pro doesn’t have an inner edge; in this way, it hugs giant shapes like a palm on a basketball rather than skimming and scratching them.

Made with a seamless 3D wrap of sticky rubber in the forefoot that tapers 3.5-2.1 millimeters below the foot, the soft interior of this shoe spreads over the grips. At the same time, the thin rubber under the foot feels every nook and cranny. This increases balance and power on small edges and slopers.

“The lack of an inside edge, combined with a reinforced outside edge, is totally unique,” ​​according to Five Ten. “As indoor and competitive climbing has become more dynamic and acrobatic, the way climbers use their feet has changed. “

Winner of three innovation awards for its unique shape, the Hiangle Pro is wrapped in a sticky rubber called Stealth C4, from heel to toe, with additional rubber on the forefoot and a reinforced outer edge. In this way, the shoe securely grips, recoils, and adheres to large volumes and other gym-specific terrain. They also have an aggressive heel-shaped toe box to deliver precision and ring power to the big toe. The design helps them to fit snugly and securely. There is a single Velcro closure strap to secure the feet inside the unlined synthetic suede uppers.

The Hiangle Pro excels in gyms on the steepest terrain, where extreme movement and fluidity are mastered. Here individuals and groups work out the beta (sequence) and help their friends on the send (reach the top).

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Reaching new heights at the Olympics

The 2020 Summer Olympics helped introduce this language to those outside the climbing world. He took viewers to parkour-style routes, which means running and jumping over a series of holds to catch a distant hold, as well as a squeeze style, in which athletes hook their arms and legs around from the ground like a starfish shooting with all points immediately. One of the most exciting moves seen in gyms today is the paddle dyno: you leap through the air with outstretched arms that bounce (paddle) from one grip to another to secure a jug out. range (large catch). This advanced movement is exactly the style of climbing the Hiangle Pro was designed for. (For more on climbing terms, see Matt Samet’s book The climbing dictionary: mountaineering slang, terms, neologisms and jargon.)

Launched in Europe and Japan in time for the 2020 Summer Olympics, the Hiangle Pro is available today for US customers looking to get the most out of their indoor climbing, from recreational climbers to the world’s best in competition. for the highest step of the podium.

I found the shoes comfortable out of the box. Despite their drastic design – which tightens, wraps and holds the foot in place while shaping it to a point in the forefoot – my forefoot and toes didn’t feel pinched and the heel area was safe and secure. comfortable. There’s only one downside: because they fit like compression socks, taking them off was energy-consuming, which made me want to leave them and keep climbing.

[$160, available at]

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